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Growing and Seed Saving Information

For information about how to grow and save seeds from the varieties listed in our catalog, you may either scroll down the page, or search by specific crop type below.

Search by crop type: ---Pick a Crop Type-- Beans Beets Broccoli Cabbage Cauliflower Carrots Celery Chard Corn Cover Crops Cucumbers Eggplant Fennel Flowers Garlic Greens (Various) Herbs, Culinary and Medicinal Kale Lettuce Melons Onions Peas Peppers Potatoes Pumpkins Radishes Spinach Squashes Tomatilloes and Tomatoes Turnips

Beans - Phaseolus vulgaris

Planting Instructions for Beans

Beans are tender annuals. Direct seed after danger of all frost has passed. Seeds prefer warm temperatures between 60 and 90 ºF. White-seeded beans typically germinate less well than dark-seeded beans. Planting depth is 1” and seed spacing is 2-3”. Row spacing is 24-30”. Successive plantings throughout the summer and regular harvests will increase yields. To avoid spreading fungal diseases, do not work plants during wet conditions. Inoculant can increase yields where natural Rhizobia populations are low. (See Books and Accessories for Innoculants) Pole beans require trellis or mesh fencing for support. For larger plantings, sow 3 seeds per hole on bare ground or plastic mulch, with holes 8”apart. Thin to 2 plants per hole. Place fence posts 8-10’ apart and string a taut galvanized wire across the top of the posts. String twine vertically between top wire and ground stakes, or else string a bottom twine and create a zig-zag trellis. Snap beans are best harvested early and often, usually as soon as pods reach full length. Remove oversized beans to stimulate further pod production. Dry beans can be harvested either by hand or machine, using either a combine or a stationary thresher. Avoid harvesting moldy pods wherever possible, and make sure beans are completely dry before threshing. Dry further in cool, dry conditions prior to long-term storage.
Snap beans: for100’ sow ~ 1/2-1 lb. for 1 acre sow ~ 80-90 lbs.
Dry beans: for 100’ sow ~ 1 lb. for 1 acre sow ~ 80-120 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Beans

Root rots, caused by several different soil-borne fungi, are best prevented by crop rotation with a cereal or pasture crop, shallow planting of highly vigorous seed in soil of at least 60º, and practices that increase organic matter and soil structure. Bacterial blights are best prevented by planting only disease-free seed and fully - composting all residue from previous crops. Perhaps the most devastating disease for snap beans is white mold, caused by the fungus Sclerotinia sclerotiorum sclerotiorum. White mold persists as soil-borne sclerotia that infect plants during wet conditions, particularly during the time of petal drop. A new product called Contains WG, developed in Europe, contains a fungus that destroys white mold sclerotia and can be applied to soil prior to planting [check with your certifier before applying]. Dry beans and soybeans are not as susceptible to white mold as are the snap beans, which tend to have a higher sugar content in the pod.

Seed Saving Instructions for Beans

Self-pollinated. Beans do not readily cross between varieties so one need not separate different varieties by more than a few feet. The pods should be papery and dry when harvested. Pull up the entire plant and windrow in the field or lay on a tarp in a dry place. The plants can then be threshed by flailing or jumping on them. Use a ½" screen on top of a ¼" screen to clean the seed. Bean seed can remain viable for 4 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Beets - Beta vulgaris

Planting Instructions for Beets

The beet is a hardy biennial (producing seed in its second year). Beet seed can be directly sown into the soil as soon as soil can be worked. Lightly sprinkle seeds 1-2” apart in a furrow at least 1/2” deep, cover, and thin to a 2-3” spacing for more uniform growth. Thinned seedlings may be used as greens. Row spacing is 12-18”. Beets may also be transplanted. Sow seed indoors or in a cold frame 4-6 weeks before planting date. Optimal germination temperature is 55-75ºF, but will germinate in temperatures as low as 45ºF. Plant seedlings after danger of hard frost has passed. Keep well watered to prevent scab. For 100’ sow ~ 1/2-1 oz.
For 1 acre sow ~ 8-10 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Beets

Cercospora leaf spot is highly common on beet leaves, but is less damaging to table beets than to sugar beets and fodder beets. Disease development is promoted by high humidity and moderate temperature. Prevention includes thorough removal or decay of crop residues, as well as selection of resistant varieties. Scab of beet, caused by the bacteria Streptomyces scabies, which also causes potato scab, is most severe under dry conditions. Scab also increases in severity with increasing pH, and thus soils to be sown to beets should not receive lime prior to planting and should not be allowed to dry out during the growing season.

Seed Saving Instructions for Beets

Wind pollinated biennial. Different beet varieties must be isolated by ¼ mile or be separated by a major obstruction such as woods or a building to keep them from cross pollinating. Store beets over the winter in a cold area with high humidity or in areas with mild winters they can be left outside. In the spring transplant the entire beet to its original depth, 8"-12" apart in rows 18"-36" apart. They will grow in height and eventually flower. Seeds are ready to harvest when they are dry. The entire seed stalk can be brought in to dry further before threshing. Use a 1/4" and 1/8" screen to help with cleaning. Beet seeds can remain viable for 4-6 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower - Brassica oleraceas

Planting Instructions for Broccoli, Cabbage, and Cauliflower

Broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower are all biennials (producing seed in its second year), however cabbage is somewhat hardier than broccoli or cauliflower. Transplanting is recommended in spring due to the fact that crucifer crops do not thrive in the heat of the summer. Fall plantings can be successfully direct seeded in late June or July if soil is kept from getting too hot, such as by use of an organic mulch. Seeds for transplanting can be sown indoors or in a cold frame 4-6 weeks prior to your planting date, at a seed depth of 1/4 to 1/2”. Optimal soil temperature is 75ºF, but will germinate in temperatures as low at 50ºF.
Broccoli: Plant spacing is 12-18” apart in rows 18” apart. Plant seedlings outdoors after danger of hard frost has passed. Although broccoli thrives in cool weather, seedlings exposed to just four days of 40ºF temperatures or other stress may start forming heads prematurely (this is known as buttoning). Ideal temperature for head development is 70-80ºF. Harvest center domes and side shoots prior to flower buds opening. Regular harvesting of side shoots will encourage more production.
Cabbage: Seedlings can be planted after danger of hard frost has passed. Plant spacing is 12-18” apart in rows 18-34” apart. Closer spacing results in reduced head size. Harvest heads when they are firm when squeezed. Heads harvested in the summer leave tiny off shoots that may develop throughout the summer. Splitting heads are caused by too much uptake of water. You can twist the head half way or cut roots to reduce uptake where splitting is a problem.
Cauliflower: Look for early, mid and late season varieties. Although cauliflower thrives in cool weather, seedlings exposed to just four days of 40ºF temperatures or other stress may start forming heads prematurely (this is known as buttoning). Temperatures between 70-80ºF are ideal for head development. Cover developing heads with leaves to keep blanched effect. Harvest before curds turn loose and become mealy.
For 100’ sow ~ 1/8-1/4 oz.
For 1 acre sow ~ 1/2-1 lb. All days to maturity in this section are from transplanting.

Disease and Pest Information for Broccoli, Cabbage, and Cauliflower

Black rot, caused by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris, is one of the most, destructive diseases of all crucifer crops. Symptoms first appear as V-shaped yellow lesions at the leaf margin, after which the veins of infected leaves, stems, and roots turn black. Infected plants should be pulled up as soon as noticed, and plantings should never be worked during wet conditions. Alternaria diseases, including black leaf spot and gray leaf spot, are caused by several species of Alternaria fungus and can be especially severe in cabbage, causing defoliation and head rot. Fungal diseases can be prevented by spraying with copper hydroxide (see Champion WP™ in Books and Accessories) and/or oxidate (see Storox™ in Books and Accessories ), but are best prevented by production practices that build soil and promote vigorous plant growth. Head rot of broccoli and cauliflower, caused by several different bacterial species, can develop quickly under conditions of high moisture and high temperature. Head rot is prevented by production practices that enhance air movement to promote drying, as well as maintenance of adequate calcium and boron levels in soil. Insect pests, including cabbage looper, imported cabbage worm, and diamondback moth, are largely of the Lepidoptera order and can thus be controlled by Bacillus thuringiensis (see Dipel DF in Books and Accessories) and/or spinosad (see Entrust™ in Books and Accessories), preferentially in rotation with one another to prevent selection of resistant individuals [check with your certifier before applying].

Seed Saving Instructions for Broccoli

Insect pollinated biennial (can work as an annual). Different broccoli varieties need to be isolated by ¼ mile to prevent cross pollination. Barriers such as tree lines, woods or buildings in between varieties can allow for shorter distances. Transplant in early spring and allow plants to flower after forming a compact head. Broccoli seed can take a very long time to mature and may require some season extension. Gather seed stalks when seed pods are dry being careful to prevent losses due to shattering. Use a 1/8" screen to help with cleaning. Broccoli seed remains viable for 5 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Carrots - Daucus carota

Planting Instructions for Carrots

Carrots are a very hardy biennial (producing seed in its second year). Can be direct seeded as soon as soil can be worked through mid-summer. Transplanting is not recommended. Optimal soil temperature for germination is 55º-75ºF. Seed depth is ¼- ½”. Seedlings may take up to 3 weeks to emerge. Plants should be thinned to 1-2” for desired size. Double rows 18-24” apart is standard. Keep rows free of weeds, and cultivate on surface of soil in order to avoid root damage. Cover emerging carrot tops with soil or mulch. For storage carrots direct sow seeds 3-4 months prior to first frost date. Carrots are best harvested following a frost but before ground freezes. When selecting a carrot variety, take into consideration your soil type. Most every root crop will do well in loose sandy soils. In general shorter carrots with tapered ends, such as Chantenay types, do better in dense clay soils.
For 100’ sow ~ ¼ oz.
For 1 acre sow ~ 2-4 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Carrots

Fungal leaf blights caused by either Alternaria dauci or Cercospora carotae can cause severe defoliation and greatly reduce yields. Generally cercospora blight appears earlier than alternaria blight. Both these fungi are seed-borne and can also be spread by crop residues from previous years. Damage by Alternaria dauci has previously been overestimated due to the similarity in symptoms between blight caused by Alternaria dauci and blight caused by Alternaria alternata, which is a weaker, soil-borne pathogen that is extremely common and attacks many different plants under stress. Carrots are also subject to several different root rots, including black rot, bacterial soft rot, cavity spot, crater rot, crown rot, white mold, and violet root rot, all of which are best controlled by careful crop rotations, avoidance of wounding during harvest, rapid cooling after harvest, and proper storage conditions.

Seed Saving Instructions for Carrots

Insect pollinated biennial. Different carrot varieties must be isolated by ¼ mile to keep them from crossing with one another. They must also be isolated from the common wildflower Queen Anne's Lace, which is the same species as carrot. Store carrots over the winter. In areas with mild winters they can be left outside. In the spring, transplant the entire carrots to their original depth, 6"-12" apart in rows 18" apart. They will grow in height and eventually flower. Seeds are ready to harvest when they are dry. They can tend to shatter when ripe, so take care in harvesting and watch closely during ripening. Use a 1/8" screen to help with cleaning. Carrot seeds can remain viable for 3 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Celery - Apium graveolens

Planting Instructions for Celery

Celery is a tender annual with a long growing season (100+ days). Special attention needs to be paid to watering and fertilizing. Use compost at planting and periodically through the season to produce thick stalks. Seeds are sown indoors 12 weeks before last frost date. Seeds can be broadcast in flats covered by a thin layer of soil. Seedlings emerge within 3 weeks. Ideal soil temperature for germination is 70-75ºF. Temperatures may be reduced after emergence. When seedlings have at least two true leaves they can be planted in cell trays. After danger of all frost has passed seedlings may be planted outdoors, preferably in a moist location or with regular irrigation. Plant spacing is 6-8” apart. Row spacing is 24-36” apart. Bolting is caused by continual exposure to temperatures of 50ºF or below. The ideal temperature range for celery production is 55-80ºF. Harden off plants by reducing water, not temperature. For pale celery stalks, paper bags or cans can be placed around stalks for two weeks, to induce blanching. Celery can withstand light fall frosts and is sensitive to major temperature fluctuations.
For 100’ sow ~ 1 gram .

Disease and Pest Information for Celery

See Carrots for more information
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Chard - Beta vulgaris

Planting Instructions for Chard

Swiss chard is a tender biennial, (producing seed in its second year) is closely related to the beet. Chard can be direct sown mid-spring throughout mid-summer. For bunching sprinkle seeds in ½” deep furrow, every 2-4” and cover. Seedlings should emerge within 14 days. Thin to 6”. Row spacing is 18-24”. For salad mix, broadcast seed in a 2-6” wide, ½” deep band and cover seeds. Greens should be ready for first harvest in five weeks. Regular harvesting will promote vigorous growth.
Bunching: For 100’ sow ~ 1/4 oz.; For 1 acre sow ~ 5-7 lbs.
Baby leaf: For 100’ sow ~ 2 oz.; For 1 acre sow ~ 40 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Chard

Cercospora leaf spot is highly common on Swiss chard leaves, and disease development is promoted by high humidity and moderate temperature. Prevention includes thorough removal or deep plowing of crop residues, together with two- to three-year rotations with non-host crops. In wet years Swiss chard is subject to several root rot diseases that cause damping-off, root rot, and/or stem rot. These soil-borne diseases are best prevented by not planting into overly-wet soils and using only the most vigorous, healthy seed.

Seed Saving Instructions for Chard

Wind pollinated biennial. Different chard varieties must be isolated by ¼ mile from each other and from any beets that are flowering as well. Barriers such as tree lines, woods or buildings between varieties may allow for shorter isolation distances. In the fall, dig up the plants and cut off any leaves about an inch above the crowns. Transplant into bins of damp sand or sawdust and store at 32-40°F under high humidity. In mild climates chard may survive with protection outside or in a greenhouse. In the spring, transplant outside 6"-10" apart in rows 16"-24" apart. Be prepared
to stake or trellis the plants as they can grow to several feet in height. Harvest seed stalks as they dry and thresh with a flail or by stomping. After threshed use a ½" and ¼" screen to help with cleaning. Chard seed remains viable for 4-6 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Corn - Zea mays

Planting Instructions for Corn (Sweet, Pop, and Flint)

Corn is a warm weather, tender annual. Soil should be fertilized with compost in spring, at about knee high and again when silks are first visible for optimal growth. Seed is directly sown after all danger of frost has passed. Soil temperature, ideally 55ºF or higher, is critical for good germination. Direct sow seeds 1-2” below soil surface every 6-8” in rows 24-36” apart. Blocks of at least 4 rows are needed
for adequate pollination (a block is 4 rows, 10-20’ long). Plant only one variety per block. Successive plantings can be made through early summer. Plants can be hilled when they reach 8” to reduce weeds and to help support the plant. Harvest when ear silks are dried and brown and kernels are full to the tip and milky looking. Corn is generally ready 18-24 days after first silk has formed. Warmer weather conditions reduce days to maturity.
Sweet: For 100’ sown ~ 1/4 lb.; For 1 acre sow ~ 12-15 lbs.
Ornamental and Milling: For 100’ sow ~ 1/2 lb; For 1 acre ~ 30 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Corn

Pre- or post-emergence damping-off, caused by soil-borne Penicillium spp, Fusarium spp., Pythium spp., and several others, is an extremely common problem for corn growers, especially those using untreated seed. Users of untreated seed must wait until soil has fully warmed to at least 55º before planting, although some varieties germinate better in cool soils than others. Insect pests on corn include corn earworm, armyworm, flea beetles, and the European corn borer. The lepidopteral (i.e. worm) pests can be controlled by applications of Bacillus thuringiensis (see Dipel DF in Books and Accessories) and/or spinosad (see Entrust™ in Books and Accessories) specifically applied at the early tasseling stage. Spray from above down into the tassel to best target young larva. [Check with your certifier before applying any suggested compounds]

Seed Saving Instructions for Corn

Wind pollinated. Corn must either be hand pollinated or isolated by ¼ mile between varieties. However, if tree lines, woods or structures separate the corn varieties then shorter distances may be sufficient. A minimum of 100 plants should be used for saving seed to maintain the maximum amount of genetic diversity of the variety. Allow the ears to dry on the plant and harvest when husks are dry and papery. Once harvested some additional drying under cover or indoors may be necessary before they can be shelled easily. Once shelled use a ½" screen on top of a ¼" screen to help with cleaning. Corn seed can remain viable for 5-10 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Cover Crops

Planting Instructions for Cover Crops

Sow cover crops by broadcasting seed over the desired plot. Ideally, seed should spread evenly, about 1 square inch from each other. The ”whirligig” and hand-pushed drop spreader (broadcast seeder) are very simple, efficient tools to achieve the same purpose. Raking or discing the grain 1”-3” into the soil is recommended. Some larger growers use either hand or tractor pulled grain drills. This involves a hand-pushed singlewheeled seeder. This is the preferred method for those who wish to keep their food grain weeded in nice clean rows.

Harvesting Instructions for Cover Crops

Harvest when seeds are nearly mature, but not fully dry. Using a hand sickle or scythe, cut stalks low to the ground laying in swaths. Tie small bundles with twine or fresh straw. These must be allowed to completely dry. We suggest either bringing under cover or harvest when there is no threat of rain for several days. Once dry, thresh with a hand flail to separate grain from straw. (Note: Buckwheat can easily be destroyed with this method. Be gentle.) Wait for a windy day or set up a fan outside to winnow the grain. Pour dirty grain over a bin so that chaff blows away and clean grain is collected. Combines are used for small scale grain harvesting and processing.
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Cucumbers - Cucumis sativus

Planting Instructions for Cucumbers

Cucumbers are a warm season tender annual. All cucurbits enjoy a generous amount of organic matter in the soil and good fertilization, responding with direct yield increases. Seeds can be direct seeded or transplanted. Cucumber seed will not germinate at soil temperatures below 50ºF, ideal soil temperature is 85ºF. Transplants should be started 3-4 weeks prior to last frost date. Optimal daytime air temperature is at least 70ºF for all cucurbits during the day, and 60ºF in the evening. Seed depth is ½- ¾”. Standard plant spacing is 12-24”. Row spacing is 36-72”. Transplants can be planted after danger of all frost has passed. Plastic mulch and row covers are commonly used in cucurbit production to increase soil and air temperature as well as ward off insects.
For 100’ sow ~ 1/2-1 oz. For 1 acre sow ~ 2-3 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Cucumbers

Cucumbers are subject to several diseases that are only of minor importance on other crops in the cucurbit family. One of these diseases is angular leaf spot, caused by the bacteria Pseudomonas syringae cv lachrymans lachrymans. Angular leaf spot is most severe on pickling cucumbers and can be responsible for yield losses due to loss of photosynthetic capacity when leaves become ragged, but does not kill the plant and does not necessarily affect fruit. Bacterial wilt ( Erwinia tracheiphila) is another cucurbit disease that most severely affects cucumber. Bacterial wilt is spread strictly by cucumber beetles, and thus control of beetles is critical for control of this disease. Gummy stem blight ( Didymella bryoniae) is common on greenhouse cucumber and can become a major problem. Gummy stem blight is prevented by strict sanitation measures to remove and destroy all plant residue, as well as measures to reduce wetness periods on leaves. Fungicide sprays can be effective, but must be applied at regular intervals.
Cucumbers are also subject to the fungal diseases of powdery mildew and downy mildew that affect all cucurbit crops, but for these diseases the best prevention is selection of resistant varieties. Cucumber mosaic virus is another problem on cucumbers, causing fruit to become unmarketable. CMV is not seed-borne but has a wide host range that includes many common weeds, such that weed control can also check spread of CMV. Consider varieties with disease resistance and/or tolerance.

Seed Saving Instructions for Cucumbers

Insect pollinated. Cucumber varieties need to be isolated by ¼ mile to ensure that cross pollination doesn't occur. Physical barriers such as tree lines, buildings or woods may make shorter distances adequate. Allow the cucumbers to remain on the vine and get swollen and yellow or brown in color. Harvest and allow them to sit in a dry, cool place for 3-6 weeks for after-ripening. This helps considerably with the maturing of the seed. Remove the seeds and add about the same amount of water as you have seeds. Allow to lightly ferment for 2-3 days in a warm place, stirring daily. Pour off debris and flat seeds while leaving large and mature seeds to remain at the bottom of the container. Dry seeds on a cloth or screen. If needed, use a 1/4"or 1/8" screen to help with cleaning. Cucumber seeds can remain viable for up to 10 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Eggplant - Solanum Melongena

Planting Instructions for Eggplant

Eggplant is a warm season tender annual. Plants are sensitive to nitrogen, and if over fertilized will grow excessive foliage and produce less fruit. Sow seeds indoors 8-12 weeks before last frost date. Planting depth is ¼”. Optimal soil temperature for germination is 85ºF. Germination is apparent within 7-14 days. Seeds can be sown thick into germinating trays and then planted into cell trays after true leaves appear. Eggplant should not be put outdoors until daytime temperatures are at least 70ºF and night time temperatures are above 50ºF. Plastic mulch and floating row cover may be used to increase soil and air temperatures as well as ward off insects. Plant spacing is 12”, with 30-36” between rows. Harvest eggplants at any size but while skin is still glossy. When skin becomes dull or seeds are brown, fruit is overripe. Regular harvest increases production of fruit. Days to maturity are from transplanting.

Disease and Pest Information for Eggplant

In soils containing the verticillium wilt fungi ( Verticillium albo-atrum and Verticillium dahliae), long crop rotations must be practiced to reduce severity of the disease. If plants are flowering but failing to set fruit, the culprit (at least in northern regions) is likely to be the tarnished plant bug, which particularly appreciates the sap of eggplant and pepper flowers. Consider planting under row covers, or where this is impractical, a spray containing several deterrents, such as Beauveria bassiana (see Naturalis™ in Books and Accessories) , pyrethrin (see Pyganic™ in Books and Accessories), neem oil (see AZA-Direct™ in Books and Accessories), and/or an insecticidal soap (see Safer’s Insecticidal Soap or M-Pede™ in Books and Accessories) may be effective. [Check with your certifier before applying any suggested compounds]

Fennel - Foeniculum vulgare dulce

Planting Instructions for Fennel

Bulb and non-bulb types of Fennel are hardy annuals. For bulb types, cool weather, fertilization and irrigation produce the largest and sweetest bulbs. Direct seed fennel midspring through late summer or start transplants 4-5 weeks before planting date for summer or fall crops. Seed depth is ¼- ½”. Seed spacing is 2” in rows 18” apart, followed by thinning plants to 6-8” apart. Bolting is a result of disturbed roots. Remove all seed stalks that form on bulb types. Harvest bulbs at 3-4” in diameter. Nonbulb fennel is grown for seed and ferny leaves.
Bulbs: For 100’ sow ~ 1/4 oz.; For 1 acre sow ~ 2-4 lbs.
Leaves: For 100’ sow ~ 1/2 oz; For 1 acre sow ~ 8-12 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Fennel

See Carrots for more information
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Flowers

See Planting Chart at the bottom of this page

General Seed Saving Instructions for Flowers

Every species of plant has a different way that it grows from flower to fruit and seed. There are some major patterns however, and these will be sufficient to get you started with most of the following flower and herb varieties.
Watch closely as the plants flower and as the flowers dry. Check regularly for seed pods or "loose" seeds in or among the dried flowers. Once located, watch and check the pods or drying flowers regularly. When the pod is papery or the seeds crumble off in your hand and appear dry, then harvest and clean by blowing the chaff away. Many flower and herb species are tiny with 100,000's of seeds per ounce. Use of a magnifying lens is helpful to locate the seeds. 1/8" window screen or smaller will be very helpful for cleaning the seed from the chaff.
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Garlic

 

Garlic likes full sun and well drained soil and is quite tolerant when it comes to soil types and textures, but appreciates well-drained, sandy-clay-loam that has a high organic content. It does best in soils with a pH between 6.2-6.8.  As with most crops, proper soil preparation is essential. Garlic has deep roots and soil should be worked 6-12” deep. Disc and cultivate to work up soil, add organic matter or manure compost, and smooth soil for easy planting.   

 

Before you plant you will want to separate bulbs into individual cloves.   Do not separate cloves until you are ready to plant, if separated for more than 48 hours they will start to lose viability. Plant each clove with the basal root end down, and pointed tip up. In general garlic should be planted ~2” deep in rows 4-6” apart (see below for seed specs and specific instruction for different types). The largest cloves will produce the largest bulbs. Small cloves, found on softneck bulbs, can be sown in the fall at a closer planting density for green onions. Hardnecks produce “scapes” that are often used for cooking (see more info below).  

 

Garlic likes to be well fertilized; 10-10-10 works well, at 3 pounds per hundred square feet. A well known practice is to till in quite a bit of cow compost during the initial soil preparation phase, side dress the crop when germination starts in the fall, and fertilize again in the spring. Do not fertilize beyond late spring, nitrogen levels at this stage may actually decrease bulb size.

 

Harvest in mid-late summer when 1/3-1/2 of the bottom leaves begin to dry down.   To harvest loosen soil and lift with a fork. Cure in a dim area with lots of airflow for two to three weeks. After curing is complete, lop off the tops about an inch above the bulb and trim the roots.  

 

Ideal storage conditions for garlic are between 35-50 °F, with a relative humidity between 65-70%, and plenty of air circulation.   Most hardneck garlic and elephant garlic can be kept for several months. The softneck varieties tend to have a longer shelf life.

 

 

Garlic Classification

 

The three distinct types of garlic are softnecks, hardnecks and elephant.  

 

Softnecks, Allium sativum L. var sativum have necks that are soft at maturity and are good for braiding. This is the main type grown on the West Coast for mass distribution. Bulbs produce medium size cloves on the outside layer and then smaller cloves on the inside. Softnecks have the strongest flavor and are known to store the best. This type is widely adapted to many climates in the US, but is less winter hardy than the hardnecks. Plants do not produce scapes. Average planting rates:   3 bulbs plants ~7’, 6 lbs plants 100’ with 4” plant spacing, 80,000 cloves/acre (~1,600lbs), with 6” plant spacing in double rows with 30” between each row set.   Large cloves produce ~6-10 cloves/bulb.   Average weight per bulb is ~2.25oz or ~50 lg cloves/lb.

 

Hardnecks, Allium sativum L. var ophioscorodon.  One notable difference between softnecks and hardnecks is that hardnecks produce a scape.   A scape is a coiled stem that produces bulbils or tiny bulbs on its flower end.   As the coiled scapes appear they must be pinched off or the bulbs will be about 1/3 smaller; freshly snipped topset bulblets are great in stir-fry, and dried scapes are interesting in flower arrangements.   Hardnecks are more cold-hardy than softnecks.   Hardneck bulbs have large outside cloves and no inner ones.   The cloves have a milder taste than softnecks, and are very easy to peel.   Average planting rates:   3 bulbs plants ~5’, 8lbs plants 100’ with 4” plant spacing, 80,000 cloves/acre (~2,000lbs) with 6” plant spacing in double rows with 30” between each row set.   Large cloves produce ~4-7 cloves/bulb.   Average weight per bulb is ~2oz or ~40 lg cloves/lb.

 

Elephant, Allium ampeloprasum, is distinct in size and taste from other types.   This garlic type is actually more closely related to leeks.   If provided with high fertility, yields per bulb can come close to 2lbs or more.   Extra large individual cloves are easy to peel and have a mild garlic taste.   This type is somewhat less hardy and should be mulched before winter to prevent heaving, which is much more common.   Pinch off any flowers that appear in spring or summer to promote larger bulbs.   Stores well, keeping 10-12 months.   Average planting rates: 1 bulb plants ~2’, 20lbs plants 100’ with 6” plant spacing, 20,000 cloves/acre (~2,000lbs) with 7” plant spacing in single rows 24” apart.   Extra-large cloves produce ~4 cloves/bulb.   Average weight per bulb is ~4-8oz or ~10 xlg cloves/lb.

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Greens (Various) - Brassica rapa; Brassica juncea; Amaranthus spp.

Planting Instructions for Asian Greens

Most Asian Greens are moderately hardy annuals. Can be sown from early spring through midsummer, and will overwinter from fall plantings in milder climates. For bunching, sow 6-8 seeds/ft in 2” wide bands set at 18-24” row spacing. For salad mix, sow 60 seeds/ft in a 2-4” wide band. Harvest at 3-5 weeks either by taking whole plants or as cut-and-come-again. Use floating row cover where flea beetles are a problem.
Baby leaves: For 100’ sow ~ 1/2 oz.; For 1 acre sow ~ 8-12 lbs.
Mature heads or bunching: For 100’ sow ~ 1/8-1/4 oz.; For 1 acre sow ~ 2-3 lbs.

Planting Instructions of Mustard Greens

Mustard Greens are moderately hardy annuals. Can be sown from early spring through midsummer, and will overwinter from fall plantings in milder climates. For bunching, sow 6-8 seeds/ft in 2” wide bands set at 18-24” row spacing. For salad mix, sow 60 seeds/ft in a 2-4” wide band. Harvest at 3-5 weeks either by taking whole plants or as cut-and-come-again. Use floating row cover (see Books and Accessories) where flea beetles are a problem.
Baby leaves: For 100’ sow ~ 1/2 oz.; For 1 acre sow ~ 8-12 lbs.
Mature heads or bunching: For 100’ sow ~ 1/8-1/4 oz.; For 1 acre sow ~ 2-3 lbs.

Planting Instructions for Amaranth

Amaranth is a heat-loving annual. Sow 12-15 seeds per foot in 70ºF/21ºC soil. Planting depth is 1/8-1/4”. Thin to 6” apart. Harvest individual leaves and pinch off terminal buds to encourage branching and leaf development. Seeds can also be harvested and either ground for flour or used whole popped or in bread.

Planting Instructions for Arugula

Arugula is a hardy annual. Sow every 3 weeks from mid-spring for a continuous harvest. Plant in a 2-4” band at around 30 seeds/ft for salad mix. Use floating row cover where flea beetles are a problem. Harvest either whole plants or as cut-and-come-again. Taste is sharper after flowering, and immature flower buds can also be harvested for salad green. Will overwinter in moderately mild climates for earliest spring harvests.

Planting Instructions for Chicory

Chicories are hardy annuals of either heading or nonheading types. For nonheading types grown for salad mix, sow shallowly at least 30 seeds/ft in a 2-4” band. For non-heading types grown to maturity, at which time flavors fully manifest, sow 5 seeds/ft and thin to 6-8” apart. For radicchio head types, color and flavors are best in cool weather. For spring plantings, sow indoors 4-6 weeks prior to earliest planting and transplant at 8-12” apart in 15-18” rows. For fall plantings, direct seed in late July. Does best in soils with good water holding capacity and pH above 6.5.

Planting Instructions for Cress, Garden

A fast-growing peppery salad green that sprouts in 24 hrs. Sow thickly in 2-4” wide bands. Harvest either whole baby plants or take repeated cuttings. Replant every 2-3 weeks throughout the season.

Planting Instructions for Cress, Upland

Also known as “creasy greens,” Upland Cress is an extremely cold hardy green completely different from Garden Cress. Direct seed or transplant to 6” spacing between plants in rows 18-20” apart. Can be grown any time, but flavor is best in cold weather. Preferred sowing is August for picking autumn into winter.

Planting Instructions for Endive and Escarole

Close relatives to chicories, endives and escaroles have similar flavor and culture but often have frillier leaves, less red pigment, and less cold hardiness. Cultivate as for chicories.

Planting Instructions for Orach

Warm weather salad green, should be direct-seeded after soil warms. Direct seed 1-2” apart, ½” deep, in rows 18-30” apart. Thin to 6-10” apart. Begin picking leaves when 1” or more tall. Best salad quality comes from first 18” of growth.

Planting Instructions for Purslane

Warm weather salad green, should be direct-seeded after soil warms. Direct seed ½” apart and ¼” deep in rows 15-20” apart. Thin to 4-6” apart. Can also be transplanted.

Disease and Pest Information for Greens

The major bane of brassica green growers is flea beetles. The most effective means to protect leaves from insects is to plant under floating row covers. When brassica greens are grown to maturity, they can be subject to several diseases, particularly in wet years. Alternaria leaf spot, caused by Alternaria alternata, can infect the oldest leaves , and move up the plant, much like early blight in tomatoes. Similarly, white mold, caused by Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, infects from soil-borne inoculum and moves up the plant from bottom to top. Both of these diseases are rarely problems in baby leaf production.

Seed Saving Instructions for Greens

Insect pollinated. Different varieties of the same species must be isolated by a ¼ mile from each other to prevent cross pollination. Physical barriers such as tree lines, woods or buildings may make shorter isolation distances possible. Allow plants to bolt and flower. Staking may be required. Harvest individual pods or stalks as they begin to dry. Seed can easily be lost due to shattering so harvest into bags or onto a tarp while they are still damp with dew in the morning. Use a 1/8" screen to help with cleaning. Seeds will remain viable for 5 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Herbs, Culinary and Medicinal

See Planting Chart at the bottom of this page

Kale - Brassica spp.

Planting Instructions for Kale

Kale is hardy biennial that will overwinter in milder climates, and improves in flavor with the onset of cold weather. Can be either direct-seeded or transplanted, and harvested either as baby leaf or in full-size bunches. For direct-seeding bunch kale, sow 3 seeds every 8-10” in rows 18-30” apart, thin to 1 plant per group. For transplanting, start indoors 4 weeks before soil warms and transplant to same spacing. For baby leaf kale, sow 60 seeds/ft in a 2-4” wide band. Cut 3-5 week old leaves.
Bunching: For 100’ sow ~ 1/8-1/4 oz.; For 1 acre sow ~ 2-3 lbs.
Salad mix: For 100’ sow ~ 1/2 oz.; For 1 acre sow ~ 8-12 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Kale

Kale and collards are subject to the same insect pests as cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli, but tend to be less preferred. Insect pests, including cabbage looper, imported cabbage worm, and diamondback moth, are largely of the Lepidoptera order and can thus be controlled by Bacillus thuringiensis (see Dipel DF in Books and Accessories) and/or spinosad (see Entrust™ in Books and Accessories), preferentially in rotation with one another to prevent selection of resistant individuals [check with your certifier before applying].

Seed Saving Instructions for Kale

Insect pollinated biennial. Different kale varieties must be isolated by ¼ mile in order to prevent cross pollination. Closer distances may be adequate if tree lines, woods or buildings are in between the different gardens. Allow plants to flower and set seed pods. Seeds are mature when black and the pods have begun to dry. Take care during seed harvest because the pods shatter readily when dry. Use a 1/8" screen to help with cleaning. Kale seed remains viable for 4-5 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Lettuce - Lactuca sativa

Planting Instructions for Lettuce

Lettuce is hardy enough to be sown as soon as the soil can be worked and throughout the summer and early fall. Many lettuce varieties have difficulty germinating in soil above 75°F, so germinate under cooler temperatures during the summer. Sow every 3 weeks for a continuous supply. For direct-seeding full-size heads, plant 3 seeds every 8”, 1/8” deep, in rows 12”-18” apart. Thin to one seedling per group. For transplanting, 3-4 weeks prior to moving outdoors sow in flats at 4 seeds/inch or in small-cell plug trays, barely covering seeds with fine vermiculite. Shade if necessary to keep soil below 75ºF on warm days. If sowing into flats, transplant 2 weeks later into plug trays, pots, or at 1-2” apart in another flat. Prior to transplanting outdoors, harden off seedlings by reducing water and temperature for 2-3 days. For salad mixes and baby leaves, sow 60 seeds/ ft in rows 12-18” apart. Harvest individual leaves as soon as they begin to size up. For mid-summer production, choose varieties with good heat tolerance and resistance to bolting. For best success, germinate seedlings in a cool place and then transplant outdoors into well-watered soil.
Mature head: For 100’ sow ~ 1/8 oz.; For 1 acre sow ~ 1 lb.
Salad mix: For 100’ sow~ 2 oz.; For 1 acre sow ~ 14-18 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Lettuce

The primary lettuce diseases are downy mildew ( Bremia lactucae), drop ( Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, also called white mold), damping-off (caused by a number of soil-borne fungi), bottom rot ( Rhizoctonia solani), and lettuce mosaic virus (LMV). Other than LMV, which is highly seed-borne, the other diseases are best prevented by production practices that maximize airflow around heads to stimulate rapid drying. Resistant varieties are available for most diseases.

Seed Saving Instructions for Lettuce

Self-pollinated. Lettuce varieties will not cross pollinate with each other even at short distances, but beware of any wild lettuce which can cross with lettuce. Allow plants to "bolt" and eventually flower. Under wet conditions lettuce plants may need to be covered with a rain cover or grown in a greenhouse to prevent fungus from infecting the plant and seed heads. Carefully shake the seedheads into a paper bag to allow the mature seeds to be collected while leaving the immature seeds and flowers to keep growing. Gather every few days until no more seeds remain. Also, you can simply harvest the entire plant when about half of the seeds are mature and allow the rest to mature inside by standing up the plants in a box and on a cloth or tarp. Use an 1/8" screen to help with cleaning. Lettuce seed can remain viable for 3 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Muskmelon/Canteloupe - Cucumis melo

Planting Instructions for Muskmelons/Cantaloupes

The melon is a warm season tender annual. Cucurbits thrive in soils with a generous amount of organic matter, fertility, and moisture, especially in beginning stages of growth. Melons should be grown in areas that receive full day sun. Direct seed 1-2 weeks following last frost date. Optimal soil temperature for germination is 75-85ºF. Seed depth is 1/2-1”. Single and double plant sowing require different spacing: 18” for single, 24-36” for doubles. Row spacing is 72”. Seedlings are apparent within 5-8 days. Sow seed indoors 4 weeks before planting date at ¼” depth. Air temperature for healthy seedling growth is 75ºF. Harden plants off by reducing temperatures and water, but do not let trays dry out completely. Plastic mulch (see Books and Accessories) and floating row cover (see Books and Accessories) are used to increase soil and air temperatures as well as ward off insects, especially cucumber beetles. Row cover should be removed as soon as plants begin flowering so that insects have access to flowers for pollination. Harvesting melons can be tricky. In general, honeydew types are ready when the skin becomes dull and fruit easily slips from the vine. Cantaloupe types get a thick netted exterior and the first leaf from the fruit begins to dry up. Melons will also ripen off the vine if harvested prematurely. Ripe melons usually keep up to 4 weeks in a cold storage.
For 100’ sow ~ 1/4 oz.; For 1 acre sow ~ 1-2 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Muskmelons/Cantaloupes

Melons are particularly susceptible to the leaf blights that can affect all cucurbit crops, caused by fungi in the Alternaria, Stemphylium, and Ulocladium genera. These blights are superficially similar and are controlled by planting of disease-free seed, crop rotations, and good sanitation practices, as well as careful attention to not shipping diseased fruit. Fruit rots such as anthracnose, scab, and fusarium fruit rot are common under wet conditions, and can be checked by fungicidal sprays such as oxidate (see Storox™ in Books and Accessories) and/or copper hydroxide (see Champion WP™ in Books and Accessories) [Check with your certifier before applying suggested compounds]

Seed Saving Instructions for Muskmelons/Cantaloupes

Insect pollinated annual. Unless hand pollinating, isolate different varieties by 1/4 mile to prevent cross pollination. Tree lines, woods or buildings separating fields can allow for shorter distances. Harvest the melons when ripe for eating. Remove the seeds and pulp and rinse under water until seeds are clean. A light fermentation with a little water can sometimes help in the cleaning process. Simply add 1 cup of water for every cup of seeds and pulp and let sit in a warm place for 2-3 days, stirring daily. Then rinse under water and allow seeds to dry on a plate, cloth or similar clean surface. After rinsed use a 1/2" or 1/4" screen to help with cleaning. Melon seed will remain viable for 4-6 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Onions and Leeks - Allium cepa, Allium porrium

Planting Instructions for Onions and Leeks

Onions are dependent on day length for bulb production. Short-day onions produce bulbs when they receive 11-12 hours of daylight (latitudes south of 35º). Long-day onions need 14-16 hours (latitudes north of 35º). The onions we sell are medium- or long-day onions and may not initiate good bulb development in southern regions where summer days are shorter. Can be direct-seeded or transplanted, where transplanting is recommended for shorter growing seasons and sweet onions. For direct seeding, sow at 1/8- 1/4” depth as soon as soil warms in spring. Sow 1” apart and thin to 2” for high yields and 3-4” for large size. Optimal soil germination temperature is 75-85ºF. Recommended row spacing is 12-18”. For transplanting, sow indoors 8-12 weeks before last frost date. Broadcast about 10 seeds into flats and cover with at least 1/4” soil. Transplant 4-6” apart in rows 12-18” apart, after all danger of hard frost has passed. Prefers soils that are well drained and contain a good amount of organic matter. Are very sensitive to weeds and drought; cultivate shallowly and irrigate if necessary. Sweet onions and red onions are ready to harvest when bulbs begin to form and throughout the summer. Storage onions are ready when tops dry up and flop over. Pull from ground and cure outdoors for at least a week before cutting tops off for storage. General rule of thumb is if they pull off easily, they store better.
Leeks are essentially a non-bulbing onion and grown very similarly. Can be either direct seeded or transplanted. Direct seed soon as soil can be worked at 1/8- 1/4” depth and 1” spacing, later thinning to 6” spacing. For transplanting, start seedlings indoors 12 weeks before last frost date. Transplant outdoors in early spring, planting so that only the top few inches remain above soil. Hill plants up at least two times during the summer for longer, blanched stalks. Like onions, leeks are sensitive to weeds and dry conditions. Can be harvested at any stage in maturity but are usually best in the fall after a few cold nights, and some varieties may even be overwintered for an early spring crop.
For 100’ sow ~ 1/2 oz.
For 1 acre sow ~ 5-7 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Onions and Leeks

Botrytis leaf blight ( Botrytis squamosa squamosa) is most common in onion and can cause major damage under favorable conditions. Symptoms include small lesions surrounded by a silvery-white “halo” that then grow and eventually extend through the wall of the leaf. Infection by the more common Botrytis cinerea (gray mold fungus) is distinguished by smaller lesions that do not have a “halo” and do not penetrate the leaf. Die-back begins at the leaf tip and can result in premature back death of the leaf prior to bulb maturity. The fungus persists as sclerotia in the soil and on crop residues. Control depends largely on protectant fungicides applied based on predictions of favorable conditions for botrytis blight. Other leaf blights include downy mildew ( Peronospora destructor) and purple blotch ( Alternaria porri and Alternaria alternata), both of which can affect leeks as well as onions. Downy mildew infection occurs under a different set of favorable conditions than those that favor botrytis blight, but control measures are similar. Purple blotch appears as elongated purple lesions that turn silvery over time, and control measures are similar to those for botrytis blight and downy mildew. Yellow cooking onions are not as susceptible to purple blotch as are Spanish onions. For all onion production, however, the best prevention methods are to never pile cull onions near onion fields and always practice crop rotations with non-host plants.

Seed Saving Instructions for Onions and Leeks

Insect pollinated. Onions are biennials or perennials and generally will not make seed their first year. Either store the bulbs in a root cellar or protect for over- wintering outside. In the spring, transplant bulbs outside about 6" apart in rows about 12" apart. Some staking may be necessary to hold up the top heavy seed stalks. Harvest seed heads when 1/2 of the pods are open and showing black seeds. Allow to dry and seeds will be easily shaken out. Use 1/8" screen to help with cleaning. Onion seeds will remain viable for 1-3 years.
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Peas - Pisum sativum

Planting Instructions for Peas

Peas like cool weather and best crops are formed prior to the heat of summer. Ensure good yields by adjusting soil pH to above 6.0 using lime, or wood ash where soils are low in potassium. As soon as the soil can be worked in spring, sow seeds 1” apart and 1/2”-1” deep in a 3” band. Do not thin. Taller varieties of peas will need to be trellised on a wire fence or string. Peas can be planted in two ways; in pairs of rows 6”-8” apart with the trellis in between and 24”-36” between each trellis, or in rows 12”-18” apart if not using a trellis. Harvest continually when ripe to encourage further yields.
For 100’ sow ~ 1-2 lbs.
For 1 acre sow ~ 250-300 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Peas

Peas are subject to an array of root rots and wilts caused by different pathogens that are difficult to distinguish in the field and extremely difficult to control. The pathogens survive in the soil in dormant states that can persist for many years. Varieties resistant to all races of Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. pisi are available, and others with resistance to Pythium spp. and Fusarium solani f. sp. pisi are under development. Peas are also subject to several leaf and pod blights, of which the most important are probably aschochyta blight (caused by any of three related species) and bacterial blight ( Pseudomonas syringae pv. pisi). Both these diseases are highly transmissible by seed, and thus all of our pea seed is grown in arid areas in which these diseases do not occur. All pea plant residue should be buried, burned, or composted at high temperatures to destroy disease organisms.

Seed Saving Instructions for Peas

Self pollinated. Pea varieties do not require any distance for isolation. Peas being grown for seed must be trellised or else mold and dampness will rot the seed pods. Allow the pods to grow large and tough and eventually they and the plants will begin to dry down. Harvest by picking individual dry pods or by pulling the entire plants out of the ground and off the trellis. Shell by hand or thresh by flailing or stomping on a tarp. A 1/2" screen on top of a 1/4" screen will help with cleaning once the peas are threshed out of the pods. Pea seed will remain viable for 3 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Peppers - Capsicum annuum

Planting Instructions for Peppers

Start peppers indoors 8-10 weeks before last frost. Plant 1/4”-1/2” deep in flats and germinate at 80-85°F. When the first true leaves appear, transplant to 2-3” apart in flats or to 2” cells. The use of larger cells encourages better root development. After soil has warmed, harden off plants by reducing water and temperature for 2-3 days and then transplant outdoors 12”-18” apart in rows 15”-36” apart, depending on variety. Peppers love heat and growth is greatly encouraged by use of solar plastic mulch to warm roots and soil, especially when used in combination with lightweight floating row cover supported on wire hoops. Set two rows on each strip of plastic mulch. Remove row covers when temperatures are above 85ºF to reduce heat damage. Row covers can also be helpful in deterring tarnished plant bug or other insects from destroying developing fruit. In colder areas, the pepper season can be greatly extended by use of hoop houses to develop warm conditions and protect from frost. Harvest first peppers quickly to encourage further fruit set. Wash and hold at 45ºF. Days to maturity are from transplanting.

Disease and Pest Information for Peppers

Peppers are commonly subject to bacterial spot ( Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria vesicatoria), causing leaf lesions that turn dark brown to black with a central tan area, that eventually coalesce and cause the leaf to drop off. Fruit spots are brown to black with a warty appearance. The disease persists on plant residue and seed, so practice strict sanitation and purchase only disease-free seed. Copper fungicides can be moderately effective, but for isolated outbreaks, pull up infected plants immediately to prevent spread. The several viruses that affect pepper can be difficult to distinguish from one another but should all be treated similarly: pull up infected plants immediately to prevent spread. In soils containing the verticillium wilt fungi ( Verticillium albo-atrum and Verticillium dahliae), long crop rotations must be practiced to reduce severity of the disease. If plants are flowering but failing to set fruit, the culprit (at least in northern regions) is likely to be the tarnished plant bug, which particularly appreciates the sap of eggplant and pepper flowers. Consider planting under row covers, or where this is impractical, a spray containing several deterrents, such as Beauveria bassiana (see Naturalis™ in Books and Accessories), pyrethrin (see Pyganic™ in Books and Accessories), neem oil (see AZA-Direct™ in Books and Accessories), and/or an insecticidal soap (see Safer’s Insecticidal Soap or M-Pede™ in Books and Accessories) may be effective. [Check with your certifier before applying any suggested compounds]

Seed Saving Instructions for Peppers

Self pollinated but can be up to 20% insect pollinated. 200-300 feet is sufficient for isolation between varieties. Peppers need to be red (or whatever color they ripen to) and can be cut open and the seeds dried on a plate or cloth. Use a 1/8" screen to help with cleaning. Pepper seeds can remain viable for 3 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Potatoes - Solanum tuberosum

Planting Instructions for Potatoes

The potato is a hardy cool season crop. They are classified by early, mid, and late season varieties, which indicates the days to maturity from the time you plant the seed potato until harvest. Potatoes can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole or larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). It is best to cut the tubers a day early in order for the skin to dry before planting. Plant tubers 3” deep, 8-12” apart, in rows 30-36” apart. Sprouts should appear after 2 weeks. Plants should be hilled shortly after emergence from the soil. A second hilling three weeks later is also recommended to increase number of tubers, promote larger tubers, and to make sure sun does not green potatoes at soil surface. New potatoes (young potatoes) can be harvested when plants begin to flower, around 7-8 weeks following planting. Storage potatoes can be harvested 14 days after plants have died back, and skins thicken for storage. Potatoes should be left out in a dry dark place to cure. Potatoes are best stored in a dark, moist, 38- 40ºF area, in burlap, boxes, or crates. Potatoes have a 4-8 week dormancy after harvest before they will sprout.
For 100’ sow ~ 15 lbs.
For 1 acre sow ~ 1,800 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Potatoes

Easily the two most difficult potato diseases are scab and late blight. Scab, caused primarily by the bacteria Streptomyces scabies, adversely affects grade and cooking quality, though not yield and storage. Scab is most severe in dry weather, when bacteria antagonistic to Streptomyces in the potato lenticel dry up, allowing scab to infect more easily. For prevention, irrigate well where possible and select scab-resistant varieties. Unlike scab, late blight is severely destructive, with the potential of total crop loss. Caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans and requiring moist conditions to spread, late blight is most prevalent in the moister, primarily eastern regions of the U.S. Symptoms of late blight include water-soaked areas at the leaf tips that spread inwards and become dark brown and brittle in one or two days. Symptoms can superficially resemble early blight, but are distinguished by the fact that late blight obliterates the pattern of leaf veins where early blight does not. Control must be effected rapidly if symptoms appear. Use fungicidal sprays such as oxidate (see Storox™ in Books and Accessories) and/or copper hydroxide (see Champion WP™ in Books and Accessories) [Check with your certifier before applying suggested compounds]
The other major potato problem is the ubiquitous Colorado Potato Beetle. While Bacillus thuringiensis var. tenenbrionis. is effective against CPB and was formerly the easiest insecticide to use, the current formulations have been removed from OMRI-A status due to difficulties with assessing inert ingredients. Luckily there is a new addition to the arsenal in the form of spinosad (see Entrust™ in Books and Accessories). Spinosad works rapidly and effectively against CPB, as well as against corn earworm, imported cabbage worm, codling moth, and several other difficult lepidopterous pests. Ideally we will regain access to Bt so that these two formulas can be used in rotation with one another to prevent selection of resistant insects.
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Pumpkins - Curcurbita pepo

Planting Instructions for Pumpkins

Pumpkins are a tender annual. They do best in fertile, well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Seeds can be direct seeded after danger of frost has passed and minimum soil temperature is 70ºF. Sow 2-3 seeds every 24-36”. Seeds can be started indoors 3-4 weeks before frost date. Optimal soil temperature for germination is 85-95ºF. Fertilize seedlings with fish emulsion if they start to yellow. Plant outdoors after danger of all frost has passed. Black plastic mulch and floating row cover can be used to increase soil and air temperature, as well as ward off cucumber beetles which eat young seedlings and also spread disease. Pumpkins can withstand a few light frosts in fall, but should be harvested before hard frost. Harvest by cutting stem near vine or at least 1” from fruit. Too many days of sun on fruits after maturity will bleach handles and sun scald the fruit. Pie Pumpkins are grown both for decoration and eating, and have been selected for flavor and texture as well as shape and size. Jack O’ Lantern pumpkins are strictly decorative, selected primarily for shape, size, handle quality, uniformity, and durability. Specialty pumpkins are also decorative, but many also have excellent eating quality.
For 100’ sow ~ 1 oz.
For 1 acre sow ~ 4-5 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Pumpkins

The most prevalent disease of pumpkins is powdery mildew, caused primarily by the fungus Sphaerotheca fuliginea. Spores of the powdery mildew fungus cannot withstand cold, and the fungus is an obligate parasite that cannot persist in the absence of host tissue. It is believed that the fungus blows north every year from southern states where crops are planted earlier. Another source of inoculum might be year-round greenhouse operations, but this has not been round confirmed. Powdery mildew is difficult to control with fungicide applications, even conventional ones, because the fungus multiplies so rapidly, evolves rapid resistance to directed sprays, and so many of the colonies are on the undersides of leaves, which are difficult to spray. Many of the newer pumpkin varieties are being developed to have tolerance to powdery mildew (PMT), meaning that the plants might still become infected but the symptoms are much less severe.
Pumpkins are also subject to several fruit rots, of which the most common is probably black rot, caused by the same fungus that causes gummy stem blight ( Didymella bryoniae). Interestingly, recent research has determined that control measures for powdery mildew, including the use of PMT varieties, also has efficacy against black rot. One major difference for black rot is that the pathogen can be seed-borne and can survive in crop residues. Burn or compost all residues and use only disease-free seed.
[see SUMMER SQUASH for discussion of cucumber beetles]

Seed Saving Instructions for Pumpkins

See Squashes for more information
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Radishes - Raphanus sativus

Planting Instructions for Radishes

Radish is an all-season, hardy annual. Most varieties are best harvested young, but some are specifically selected as winter storage radishes (see China Rose radish). Seed can be sown at any time beginning in early spring, but are best grown in spring and fall to avoid hot, dry temperatures. Seed depth is ¼ -½”, 1” apart, in rows 4-8” apart. Optimal soil temperature for germination is 80ºF. Seedlings are apparent within a few days and should be thinned, and kept well weeded. Radishes can be harvested at any time, but if left too long will typically become tough and very spicy. Floating row cover can be used to ward off flea beetles and cabbage root maggots.
For 100’ sow ~ 1-2 oz.
For 1 acre sow ~ 25-30 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Radishes

Radishes are typically grown for such a short season that diseases are rarely a problem. Being brassicas, however, they can be subject to the same fungal diseases in wet seasons as other brassica (crucifer) crops, including alternaria diseases and white mold. More likely the major problem for radishes is flea beetles, which damage young leaves. Healthy plants will outgrow this damage to produce a fine crop. Where undamaged leaves are desired, or flea beetles are especially problematic, use floating row cover (see Books and Accessories) at the time of planting and for at least two weeks after leaves emerge.

Seed Saving Instructions for Radishes

Insect pollinated. Different radish varieties should be isolated by a distance of ¼ mile to prevent cross pollination. The distance may be shortened if physical barriers exist such as tree lines, buildings or woods. Thin plants to 6" apart and allow to bolt and flower. Some staking will be necessary as the plants will grow to 3'-4'. Allow the seed pods to become papery and dry and harvest the entire plants. Some further drying may be necessary before threshing. A ¼" screen on top of a 1/8" screen can be used for cleaning the seed. Radish seeds remain viable for 5 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Spinach - Spinacia oleracea

Planting Instructions for Spinach

Spinach is a cool season hardy annual. Like all leafy greens, it thrives in soil that is fertile and moist. In addition, spinach is sensitive to soil pH, with the best range being between 6.5 - 7.5. Sow seed in early spring as soon as soil can be worked and again in late summer. Optimal soil temperature for germination is 65-75ºF. Seed depth is 1/8 -1/2”, 1” apart in rows 12-18” apart. Harvest full size spinach by picking leaves or as bunches prior to bolting. For salad mix sow in a 2-4” band, ¾” apart. Harvest small leaves in 3-5 weeks. Triple rinse leaves and sort out damaged material before packaging. For a continuous supply sow once a week.
Spinach comes in two types: smooth leaf and savoy (or semi-savoy) leaf. Smooth leaf types are easier to wash, but pack more tightly and thus require more per bag unit. Smooth-leaf types are more common in the Western U.S, whereas savoy-leaf types are more common in the Eastern U.S. Savoy types are often darker green and offer greater heft and loft in bagging, but are more difficult to wash. Newer spinach varieties are typically hybrids, as hybrids offer superior yields, adaptability, and uniformity. Older, openpollinated varieties can also do exceptionally well under the right conditions, and some people believe they taste better as well.
Bunching: For 100’ sow ~ 1/2 -1 oz. (1,100-2,200 seeds); For 1 acre sow ~ 8-10 lbs. (300,000-400,000 seeds)
Baby leaves: For 100’ sow ~ 2 oz. (4,400 seeds); For 1 acre sow ~ 35 lbs. (1.2 million seeds)

Disease and Pest Information for Spinach

The two major spinach diseases are downy mildew ( Peronospora farinose f. sp. spinaciae) and fusarium wilt ( Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. spinaciae), both of which are specific to members of the family that includes spinach, beet, and chard and cause yellowing, stunting, and plant death. Fusarium wilt is primarily soil-borne, but can be spread over long distances by infected seed. Use only disease-free seed. Once introduced to the soil fusarium wilt is difficult to eradicate and persists over a long period. Crop rotations assist in reducing inoculum, and the addition of lime at 2 tons per acre also reduces disease severity by increasing pH to alkaline levels that do not favor disease development. Downy mildew is not as persistent as fusarium wilt, and can be more easily controlled by three-year rotations with non-host crops. New varieties with resistance to one or both of these pathogens are now available, see descriptions. White rust can also be a problem for spinach growers, and white rust-resistant varieties have also become available.

Seed Saving Instructions for Spinach

Wind pollinated. Spinach varieties must be isolated by 1/4 mile to prevent cross pollination by wind. Physical barriers such as tree lines, buildings or woods may make it possible to use a shorter distance. Allow plants to bolt and set seed. Some staking may be necessary as plants may reach 3' in height. When seeds are dry, harvest the entire plant and thresh on a tarp. A 1/2 " screen on top of a 1/4" and 1/8" is helpful for cleaning. Spinach seed remains viable for 3-5 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Squashes - Cucurbita spp.

Planting Instructions for Summer Squash

Summer squashes are tender annuals. We recommend fertile well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Seeds can be direct seeded after danger of frost has passed and minimum soil temperature is 70ºF, as seeds may rot in cool soil. Sow 2-3 seeds, ½-1” deep, 18-24” apart. Seeds can also be started indoors 3-4 weeks before frost date for earlier harvests. Optimal soil temperature for germination is 85-95ºF. Fertilize seedlings with fish emulsion if they start to yellow. Harden plants off by reducing temperature, water, and fertilizer. Plant outdoors after danger of all frost has passed. Black plastic mulch (see Books and Accessories) and floating row cover (see Books and Accessories) can be used to increase soil and air temperature, as well as ward off cucumber beetles which eat young seedlings and also spread disease. Squash is best harvested when fruit is 5-8”. Regular harvesting two or three times per week will increase productivity. Make successive plantings every 14 days for a season’s supply.
For 100’ sow ~ 1-2 oz.
For 1 acre sow ~ 4-8 lbs.

Planting Instructions for Winter Squash

Winter squashes are a tender annual. We recommend fertile, well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Seeds can be direct seeded after danger of frost has passed and minimum soil temperature is 70ºF, as seeds may rot in cool soil. Sow 2-3 seeds every 18-24” for bush types, and 24-36” apart for vining types. Both bush and vining types can also planted in hills of 3-5 plants in rows 3-5’ apart, depending on type: bush types provide less weed suppression so are typically planted closer than vining types. Seeds can also be started indoors 3-4 weeks before frost date. Optimal soil temperature for germination is 85 95ºF. Fertilize seedlings with fish emulsion if they start to yellow. Plant outdoors after danger of all frost has passed. Black plastic mulch and floating row cover can be used to increase soil and air temperature, as well as ward off cucumber beetles which eat young seedlings and also spread disease. Squash should be harvested when fruit is of good size and color. Many acorn squashes
turn dark green before they are actually ripe, so make sure that ground spot (bottom of fruit) is orange and not yellow, a sign of immaturity. Winter squashes can withstand one or two very light frosts, but should be harvested before hard frost. For best storage, harvest by cutting stem at least 1” from fruit. Handle gently. Store at 50-55º with 55-75% humidity.
For 100’ sow ~ 1-2 oz.
For 1 acre sow ~ 2-6 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Summer and Winter Squash

The primary disease of cucurbit crops in the Eastern U.S., especially in areas south of Vermont, is powdery mildew. Caused by either Sphaerotheca fuliginea or Erysiphe cichoracearum cichoracearum, the familiar powdery white spots typically appear on the tops of leaves in early August in Vermont, mid-July in southern New Hampshire, early July in southern Massachusetts, and so on southwards. Powdery mildew does not overwinter in our region, and thus travels here from southern regions every summer as airborne spores. Damage from powdery mildew is correlated to severity and time of infection, where early infection on a highly-susceptible variety can lead to premature death of the plant and highly reduced yields, whereas infection later in the season when fruit is close to maturity might have minimal impact on yields. Many of the newer squash varieties are being developed to have tolerance to powdery mildew (PMT), meaning that the plants might still become infected but the symptoms are much less severe.
The other major problem for squash crops can be cucumber beetles, which damage young leaves so extensively that young plants can either die or be heavily delayed in growth. Dipping or spraying seedlings with kaolin clay (see Surround WP™ in Books and Accessories) can greatly deter beetles, and clay can also be combined with another deterrent such as insecticidal soap (see Safer’s Soap™ in Books and Accessories) or neem (see AZA-Direct™ in Books and Accessories). Alternatively, beetles can be mechanically deterred by use of floating row cover in the early season prior to flowering. Trap crops, for which blue hubbard squash is the standard, draw beetles away from your desired crop and have proven quite effective in research trials.

Seed Saving Instructions for Summer and Winter Squash and Pumpkins

Insect pollinated. Unless you are hand pollinating, different varieties of the same species need to be isolated by 1/4 mile to prevent cross-pollination. Barriers such as tree lines, woods or buildings existing between the fields can reduce this distance. Treat winter squash and pumpkins the same as usually done for winter storage but allow summer squash varieties to grow to a large size with a hard outside skin. After all squashes have reached this stage, harvest and let them sit for a period of after-ripening for 3-6 weeks or up to several months. Remove the seeds, rinse in water and dry. Use of a 1/2" and 1/4" screen can help with cleaning. Squash seeds remain viable for 6 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Tomatoes - Lycopersicon lycopersicon (except where noted)

Planting Instructions for Tomatoes

Tomatoes are very tender annuals. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit over a long period of time and have a vining habit that will need to be trellised or staked to keep them from falling over. Determinate types tend to bear most of their fruit in a shorter period of time and don’t require trellising, although under wet conditions staking is advisable for disease suppression. Heavily fertilized soil results in more foliage and softer fruits. Transplanting is recommended for tomato production. Start seeds 6-8 weeks before planting date (do not start too early, as plants will not thrive outdoors if seedlings become root bound and leggy). Sow seeds in flats or germination trays, ¼” deep. Optimal soil temperature for germination is 75-85ºF. After first true leaves appear, seedlings can be planted into plug trays. Seedlings are best grown at 65ºF. Fertilize with fish/seaweed blend fertilizer (see Books and Accessories) if leaves begin to yellow. Plant outdoors after all danger of frost has passed, and night temperatures are above 45ºF. Plant spacing is 12-18” for determinant varieties and 24-36” for indeterminate varieties. Plastic mulch and floating row cover can be used to increase soil and air temperature as young transplants are beginning to grow. Ripe tomatoes will pull easily from the vine. Green tomatoes will ripen off the vine. Greenhouse and hoop house cultivation requires use of indeterminate varieties that are carefully pruned and staked/trellised to maximize fruit production. This year we are offering one variety specifically bred for greenhouse production, and we plan to introduce further varieties in subsequent years. Days to maturity are from transplanting.

Disease and Pest Information for Tomatoes

There is no disease as problematic for tomato growers in the Northeast, Mid-Atlantic, and Midwest as early blight, caused by Alternaria solani and Alternaria alternata in cooperation with Septoria lycopersici. While the disease is usually attributed largely to Alternaria solani, as Alternaria alternata and Septoria lycopersici are considered to be only weak pathogens that infect weakened plants, we have been surprised to find that Alternaria solani actually appears to be absent from almost every case of early blight we have tested. This is easy to determine because the spores of the two Alternaria species are highly distinct from one another. Whatever its source, early blight is best treated early with regular applications of fungicidal sprays such as oxidate (see Storox™ in Books and Accessories) and/or copper hydroxide (see Champion WP™ in Books and Accessories) [Check with your certifier before applying suggested compounds]. As the fungi infect upwards from the soil, early blight can also be checked by use of mulches, such as hay or straw, that protect leaves from being splashed with soil during rain. Plastic mulches are not as effective, likely because exposed soil is typically present between rows.
Field tomatoes are also subject to several common diseases that affect fruit quality, such as bacterial speck ( Pseudomonas syringae pv. tomato) and anthracnose ( Colletotrichum coccodes). Anthracnose is a fungus and thus controlled by the same measures that assist with early blight, including regular sprays and good sanitation. Bacterial speck, however, cannot be easily controlled by sprays. Fruit symptoms include minute black spots of no more than 2 mm, thereby distinguishing the disease from bacterial canker and bacterial spot, two other bacterial diseases causing larger fruit spots. The best prevention for bacterial spot is use of disease-free seed that has been properly treated to eliminate any trace bacteria. Avoid working fields when plants are wet.
Greenhouse tomato growers have a different set of challenges. Bacterial canker ( Clavibacter michiganensis subsp. michiganensis) is a disease that has become more common in recent years with the advent of greenhouse tomato operations. The most distinctive symptom of this disease is raised, “birds-eye” cankers of light tan, no more than 3 mm in size. Diseased plants should be immediately removed and destroyed to prevent spread. Use only disease-free seed. Chemical sprays are largely ineffective and can serve to spread the disease.

Seed Saving Instructions for Tomatoes

Self pollinated. Different tomato varieties rarely cross with one another so isolation distances are not generally required. The seed is mature when the tomato itself is ripe. Squeeze the seeds and juice into a jar and add about the same amount of water. Allow this liquid to ferment in a warm place for 3-5 days, stirring daily, until the seeds have sunk to the bottom
of the jar. Rinse the seeds and allow to dry on a paper plate or cloth. Use of a 1/8" screen can help with cleaning. Tomato seeds remain viable for 4-10 years under cool and dry storage conditions.
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Turnips - Brassica Rapa

Planting Instructions for Turnips

Turnips are a very hardy annual. For best yields, soil pH should be above 6.4 with moderate nitrogen levels. Direct seed 90-100 days before fall harvest date. Optimal soil temperature for germination is 80ºF. Seeds spacing is 2”, thin to 4-6” for desired size, in rows 18-24” apart. Floating row cover may be used to ward off insects such as the cabbage root maggot and flea beetles. Mulching can help plants retain moisture and keep weed pressure down, which can result in strong flavor. Sweetest when harvested just before the ground freezes. Store at 32ºF for up to six months.
For 100’ sow ~ 1/2 oz.
For 1 acre sow ~ 6 lbs.

Disease and Pest Information for Turnips

See Broccoli, Cabbage, and Cauliflower for more information

Seed Saving Instructions for Turnips

Insect pollenated bienniel. Different turnip varieties must be separated by 1/4 mile. This distance can be lessened if there are barriers such as woods. Store turnips over the winter in a cold area with high humidity or leave outside in areas with mild winters. In the spring, transplant the entire turnip to its original depth, 8"-12" apart in rows 18"-36" apart. They will grow in height and then flower. Staking may be required. Seeds are mature when pods are dry. Harvest individual pods or entire stalks. Harvest into bags as seed can be lost due to shattering. Or harvest onto a tarp in the morning when plants are still wet with dew. Use a 1/8" screen to help with cleaning.

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PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR CULINARY AND MEDICINAL HERBS

VARIETY NAME	PLANT TYPE	HEIGHT	USES	SOWING	DAYS TO GERM	GERM TEMP	SUN/ SHADE
CULINARY HERBS
Basil, All Types	A	8-24"	F/D/O	DSA/T	4-10	70-85 deg.F	SUN
Chives	P	1-2'	F	DSE/T	7-14	60-65 deg.F	SUN/PS
Cilantro/Coriander	A	1-2'	F/D/T	DSE	7-14	55-65 deg.F	SUN
Dill, Bouquet	A	2-5'	F/D	DSE	7-21	70-85 deg.F	SUN
Garlic Chives	P	12-18"	F	DSE	7-14	60-65 deg.F	SUN/PS
Marjoram, Sweet	P	1-2'	F/D	T	7-21	65-70 deg.F	SUN
Oregano	P	6-12"	F/D/T/O	T	7-21	65-70 deg.F	SUN
Parsley, All types	B	8-12"	F/D/B	DSE/T/DSF	14-60	65-70 deg.F	SUN/PS
Sage, Common	P	2-3'	F/D/T/O/B	DSE/T	10-21	65-70 deg.F	SUN
Thyme, German	P	6-12"	F/D/T/O/B	T	14-28	60-65 deg.F	SUN
MEDICINAL HERBS
Borage	A	2-3'	F/D/B	DSE/DSF	7-14	60-65 deg.F	SUN/PS
Catnip	P	1-2'	F/D/T/B	DSE/T/DSF	10-14	65-70 deg.F	SUN/PS
Chamomile, German	A	8-18"	F/D/T/B	DSE/T	10-14	65-70 deg.F	SUN
Echinacea	P	2-3'	F/D/T	DSA/T	14-21	65-70 deg.F	SUN
Lavender	P	2-3'	F/D/T/O/B	T	14-28	65-70 deg.F	SUN
Lemon Balm	A	1-2'	F/D/T/B	DSA/T	7-14	65-70 deg.F	SUN/PS
Sacred Basil	A	18-24"	F/D/T/B	DSA/T	4-10	70-85 deg.F	SUN

Key to Abbreviations
Plant Type: A= annual, B= biennial, P= perennial
Height: Plant height at maturity
Uses: F=fresh, D=dry, T=tincture, O=oil, B=beverage
Sowing: DSE=direct seed early, DSA=direct seed after all danger of frost, T=transplant,
DSF=direct seed in the fall
Days to Germ: typical number of days until germination
Germ Temp: ideal temperature for seed germination
Sun/Shade: sunlight preference Sun= full sun, PS= partial shade

PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR FLOWERS

VARIETY NAME	PLANT TYPE	HEIGHT	BLOOM TIME	SOWING	DAYS TO GERM	GERM TEMP	SUN/SHADE
Amaranth, Love-Lies-Bleeding	Annual, Reseeds	4-5'	MS	DSE	10-15	65-90 deg.F	SUN
Calendula	Hardy Annual, Reseeds	18-24"	MS	DSE	8-14	60-70 deg.F	SUN
Cockscomb Mix Celosia	Tender Annual, Reseeds	1-2'	MS	DSA	3-6	60-90 deg.F	SUN
Cleome	Annual	4'	ES-LS	T	10-12	70-75 deg.F	SUN
Cosmos	Annual	3-5'	MS-LS	DSA/T	7-10	70-75 deg.F	SUN
Larkspur, All Types	Annual	2-3'	ES-FA	DSE/T/DSF	14-21	50-65 deg.F	SUN
Love in a Mist	Annual	15-24"	MS-FA	DSE/T	14-21	60-70 deg.F	SUN
Marigold, Dark Orange	Hardy Annual	3-4'	MS	DSA	3-7	75-80 deg.F	SUN
Nasturtium	Annual	12-16"	ES-FA	DSA/T	10-14	60-70 deg.F	SUN
Poppy, California	Annual	8-12"	MS-LS	DSA/T	14-21	60-70 deg.F	SUN
Poppy Mix	Annual	1'	MS-LS	DSE/DSF	14-21	60-70 deg.F	SUN
Salvia, Marbel Arch Mix	Annual	26-28"	MS-LS-EF	DSA	12-15	70 deg.F	SUN/PS
Sunflower, Autumn Beauty Mix	Annual	6-8'	MS-FA	DSA/T	2-10	70-85 deg.F	SUN
Sunflower, General	Annual	5-10'	MS-FA	DSA/T	2-10	70-85 deg.F	SUN
Sunflower, Mammoth	Annual	10-12'	LS-FA	DSA/T	2-10	70-85 deg.F	SUN
Sunflower, Ornamental Mix	Annual	6-10'	MS-FA	DSA/T	2-10	70-85 deg.F	SUN
Sunflower, Torch Mexican	Annual	4-6'	MS-FA	DSA/T	7-14	70-75 deg.F	SUN